Art of shoemaking



July 26, 1938. l F. w. DREW 2,124,653

ART oF sHoEMAKING F11-ed Dec. s, 193s 2 sheets-sheet 1 Z3 ZI July 26,193s. F w, DREW 2,124,653

ART OF SHOEMAKING Filed Dec. s, 195e 2 shets-sheet `2:

Patented July 26, 1938 PATENT OFFICE ART oF LsHoEMAKING l Frederick.Wallace Drew, Portsmouth, Ohio, as-

signorv to' United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, .N. J.,acorporation of New Jersey Application DecemberS, 1936, Serial No.114,036

2 Claims.,-r (Cl. 12-142) This invention relates to a methodof makingshoes and to an insole which is employed in practicing the method.

In the manufacture of one type of shoe the bottom of the forepart ofwhich is flexible, it

has been customary to provide a skeletonized insole having an opening inits forepart into which a projection on the outsole extends, and oneobject of the present invention is to improve the method ofmanufacturing such a shoe. Not only is it difficult to attach a skeletoninsole firmly to the bottom of a last but, when this insole is subjectedto strains as it is, for example during the lasting of the upper, it isliable to be stretched or distorted, with the result that the desiredshape of the finished shoe is not attained.

According to the present invention, a piece is out out of the insole toproduce an opening having a beveled edge in its forepart in which theprojection on the outsole may later be received, and then the cut-outpiece is fastened firmly but detachably in place with the beveled edgeof the piece in contact with the beveled edge of the opening. Thisinsole, which is practically as strong as before the opening in it wasmade, is assembled together with an upper upon a last, and themanufacture of the shoe is carried out in any desired manner until thepartly fabricated shoe reaches the stage where the outsole is to beattached, whereupon the cut-out piece is re' moved from the opening inthe insole, and the outsole is fastened in place with its projectionextending into the opening. Althoughthepresent invention is applicableto the manufacture of various kinds of shoes having skeletonizedinsoles, it is particularly well adapted to the manufacture of aGoodyear welt shoe.

Referring to the accompanying drawings:

Fig. l is a perspective of a channeled insole;

Fig. 2 is a transverse section of this insole; Fig. 3 is a detail in endelevation of a portion of a machine for distorting the insole andcutting the piece out of the forepart, an insole being shown in processof being operated upon;

Fig. 4 is a detail in front elevation of a portion of the same machineand insole, the cut of the knife being indicated by a dot-and-dash line;Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the insole showing the bevel edge ofthe cut-out piece and that of the opening;

Fig. 6 is a perspective of the insole after the cut-out piece has beensevered therefrom;

Fig. 7 is a perspective of the insole after the cut-out piece has beensewed in place and the channel flaps have been raised to form a rib;

Fig. 8 is a transverse section of Fig. 7;

Fig. 9 is a transverse section like Fig. 8 but showing in additionareenforcement of sheet material cemented to the insole;

Fig. 10 is a detail showing the lasting of the upper and the fasteningof it to the rib of the insole by a staple lasting machine;

Fig. 11 is a transverse section of a partly fabricated shoe after theinseam has been trimmed and the cut-out piece removed;

Fig. 12 is a perspective of an outsole having a projection on itsforepart;

Fig. 13 is a transverse section through the forepart of the outsole;

Fig. 14 is a transverse section through the forepart of a finished shoe;and

Fig. 15 is a view partially in transverse section and partially inperspective showing the interior of the toe portion of a finished shoe.

In carrying out the method, an insole (Fig. l) is channeled, for exampleby making the two cuts 2|, 23 commonly employed which produce two thinflaps. A piece l I9 is cut out of the forepart of the insole to providean opening to receive the projection |25 (Fig. 12) on the outsole 25.This projection may be formed in any suitable manner and preferably hasa beveled edge 225. Returning to Figs. 2 to 10, a satisfactory mode ofcutting out a piece from the insole is by distorting the forepart of theinsole and feeding it to a knife 28 by means of rolls 21, 29 havingrespectively a matrix 3l and a patrix 33, these members being properlyshaped and arranged to cooperate with each other so as preferably toprovide a beveled edge opening into which the projection on the outsolewill fit. The cut-out piece IIS is now detachably fastened in place inthe opening so that, at the proper time, it may readily be removed. Asillustrated, the piece is sewed in place by chain stitches 35 which passthrough the beveled edges of the cut-out piece and of the opening andwhich may readily be pulled out. The channel flaps are now raised andstuck.together in the usual manner to form a rib 31, the completedinsole having the appearance shown in Fig. '7. It will be noted that thebevel cut by which the piece H9 was cut out is inclined downward andinward from the soleattaching face of the insole so that later thispiece may readily be removed from that face.

The completed insole is assembled together With an upper, whichordinarily comprises an outer layer 39 and a lining 4I, upon a last 43and is lasted in any desired manner and fastened to the insole. Asillustrated in Fig. 10, this may be accomplished by means of a suitablelasting machine which drives staples through the upper into the rib 31.The welt 41 (Fig. 11) is attached by a Welt sewing machine which insertsthe stitches 49, and the inseam is trimmed. At this stage, the chainstitch 35 (Fig. 7) which holds the cut-out piece H9 in place is pulledout and the piece is removed, the shoe now having the appearance shownin Fig. 11. The outsole 25 is located on the bottom of the shoe with itsprojection |25 extending into the opening in the insole, with thebeveled edge of the projection against the beveled edge of the opening,and is pressed rmly into place bythe usual sole-attaching machine, afterwhich the sole is fastened to the welt by stitches 5l and the sole isleveled.

Referring now to Fig. 9, the insole of Fig. 8 may be reenforced ifdesired by a properly shaped piece of sheet material 53, such as canvasor leather, which is cemented to one face of the insole I9 and to theinner face of the rib 31 over the cut-out piece l I9; and in this caseit will be necessary to cut this reenforcement to permit removing thecut-out piece. If desired the point of a knife may be forced through thereenforcement and into the cut between the cut-out piece and the rest ofthe insole, and then the knife may be manipulated to sever the stitches36 and at the same time cut a piece out of the reenforcement. Althoughthe invention has been set forth as applied to the manufacture of a weltshoe in which the sole is attached to the welt by stitches, it should beunderstood that the invention is not limited in the scope of itsapplication to use in the manufacture of such a shoe. And valthough theillustrated method has been described as comprising a series of stepsperformed in a particular order, it should be understood that the orderof the steps may in some cases be varied.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. The method of making a shoe which comprises providing an outsole witha beveled projection on its forepart, cutting a piece out of theforepart of an insole to produce an opening having a beveled edge inwhich the projection on the outsole may later be received, detachablyfastening the cut-out piece in place in the opening by means of stitchesextending substantially parallel to the edge of the opening in theinsole and capable of being readily pulled out, and employing the insoleand outsole in the manufacture of a shoe including removing the cut-outpiece and fastening the outsole in place with its projection extendinginto the opening and the beveled edge of the projection in contact withthe beveled edge of the opening.

2. The method of making a shoe which comprises providing an outsole witha projection on its forepart, channeling an insole, cutting a bevelededge piece out of the fcrepart of the insole to form an opening toreceive the projection on the outsole, detachably fastening the cut-outpiece in the opening by stitches which pass through the k beveled edgeof the cut-out piece and that of the opening, raising the channel flapsto form a rib, attaching a reenforcing fabric to the insole over thecut-out piece and employing the insole and outsole in the manufacture ofa shoe including cutting out a portion of the reenforcing fabric,severing the stitches, removing the cut-out piece and the cut-outportion and fastening the outsole in place with its projection extendinginto the opening.

FREDERICK WALLACE DREW.

